Every expensive plumbing repair starts as a cheap one.

The ceiling that needs replacing started as a cracked bead of shower sealant. The rotten kitchen floor started as a weeping joint under the sink. The emergency boiler call-out in January started as a pressure gauge that kept creeping down in October.

The difference between a £10 fix and a £2,000 repair is often just time. So which problems should you stop putting off?

Here are the ones worth sorting out now.

The Dripping Tap

It’s the problem everyone has and nobody fixes. It’s just a drip, after all.

But a tap dripping once a second wastes over 5,000 litres of water a year, according to water efficiency estimates. On a water meter, you pay for every drop. And that drip is a sign that something inside the tap is wearing out.

What causes it:

  • A worn rubber washer in older traditional taps
  • A failed ceramic cartridge in modern quarter-turn and mixer taps
  • Limescale stopping the valve from sealing properly

What happens if you ignore it: The drip gets faster. Water running constantly over the valve seat can wear a groove into it, so a simple washer swap becomes a full tap replacement. In hard water areas, the constant flow leaves heavy scale stains on sinks and baths that are hard to shift.

The fix: A replacement washer costs pennies. A ceramic cartridge typically costs £10 to £25. A plumber can usually sort these types of plumbing repairs in well under an hour.

The Toilet That Keeps Running

Can you hear a faint trickle from the bathroom long after anyone has flushed? That’s water going straight down the drain.

A leaking flush valve or a sticking fill valve can let water run into the pan around the clock. Waterwise has estimated a leaking toilet can waste between 200 and 400 litres a day. That’s more than the average person uses for everything else combined.

Quick test: Put a few drops of food colouring in the cistern. Wait half an hour without flushing. If colour appears in the pan, the flush valve seal has failed.

The fix: Replacement seals and valves are cheap and widely available. Leave it, and you’re simply pouring money away every single day.

The Overflow Pipe Dripping Outside

Look at the outside walls of your house. Is there a small plastic pipe poking out with water dripping from it, or a green stain running down the brickwork beneath it?

That’s an overflow pipe. It’s there to warn you that a cistern or cold water tank is overfilling. Most of the time, the cause is a faulty float valve that isn’t shutting off the supply.

Why it matters:

  • Water runs constantly and is wasted
  • Brickwork stays wet, which can lead to damp inside
  • In winter, the dripping water can freeze and block the pipe
  • A blocked overflow on a loft tank can lead to the tank spilling over into the ceiling below

The fix: A new float valve or a simple adjustment. Usually a small job. Ignoring it risks a soaked ceiling.

Failing Shower Sealant and Grout

Look closely at the silicone around your shower tray and bath. Is it black, cracked or peeling away at the corners?

Every time you shower, a little water gets through that gap. It runs behind the tray, under the bath or down into the floor void. You won’t see it. Not until the stain appears on the ceiling below.

By that point, the plasterboard is usually soaked and the joists may have been wet for months. Timber that stays damp for long enough becomes vulnerable to rot.

Signs to look for:

  • Mould or dark staining in the sealant
  • Gaps where the sealant has come away from the tray
  • Cracked or missing grout
  • Loose tiles that move when pressed
  • A shower tray that flexes when you stand in it

Cost now versus later: Resealing a shower is an afternoon’s work and a tube of sealant. Repairing a water-damaged ceiling, re-tiling a bathroom and treating rotten joists can run into thousands.

Slow Drains

A sink that takes a little longer to empty. A shower where water pools around your feet. A bath that gurgles as it drains.

Slow drains are a warning, not just an annoyance. They mean something is building up in the pipe. In kitchens it’s usually fat and food waste. In bathrooms it’s hair and soap scum.

Why act early? A partial blockage is easy to clear with a plunger or a cheap drain snake. A full blockage might need a plumber or drainage engineer. And if several fittings are draining slowly at once, the problem may be further down the line, in the main drain itself.

Gurgling from more than one plughole, bad smells outside or water backing up into a downstairs toilet all suggest a bigger drainage issue. That needs looking at quickly, before it becomes a sewage problem inside your home.

Low or Falling Water Pressure

Has your shower lost its punch? Does the kitchen tap take ages to fill a pan?

Low pressure has several possible causes, and some are more serious than others:

  • Limescale clogging shower heads and tap aerators
  • A partly closed stopcock or isolation valve
  • A leak somewhere on your supply pipe
  • Old galvanised steel pipes narrowing with corrosion
  • A problem with the water company’s supply in your area

Start with the simple checks. Descale the shower head. Make sure the stopcock is fully open. Ask a neighbour if their pressure has dropped too.

If the problem is only in your home and none of the easy fixes help, it’s worth getting it investigated. A hidden leak on the supply pipe can wash away the ground around it and waste huge amounts of water before you ever see a wet patch.

Boiler Pressure That Keeps Dropping

Most combi boilers should sit at around 1 to 1.5 bar when the heating is cold. Topping it up once in a while isn’t unusual. Topping it up every week is.

A boiler that keeps losing pressure is losing water. That water is going somewhere. Common culprits include:

  • A leaking radiator valve
  • A weeping joint under the floor
  • A faulty pressure relief valve
  • A failed expansion vessel inside the boiler

What happens if you ignore it: The boiler will eventually lock out on low pressure, usually on the coldest night of the year. Meanwhile, a hidden leak under the floor could be soaking the timbers.

The fix: Check radiator valves for drips or crusty deposits. Look at the pressure relief pipe outside to see if it’s dripping. Then book a Gas Safe registered engineer to find the cause. Don’t keep topping it up and hoping.

Banging and Knocking Pipes

Do your pipes bang when you turn off a tap or when the washing machine finishes filling?

That’s often water hammer. When water moving through a pipe is suddenly stopped, the pressure wave makes the pipe jolt. It’s especially common with quick-closing valves on washing machines and dishwashers.

It’s not just a noise problem. Repeated banging can:

  • Loosen pipe clips and fixings
  • Weaken joints over time
  • Shake fittings loose behind walls and under floors

The fix: Securing loose pipes with extra clips often solves it. In other cases, a plumber may fit a water hammer arrestor or reduce high mains pressure. A small job that protects every joint in the house.

Damp Patches and Musty Smells

A stain on the ceiling. Peeling paint near the skirting. A room that always smells slightly musty.

These are often the first visible signs of a hidden leak. What makes them tricky is that the source isn’t always directly above or behind the patch. Water can travel along joists and pipes before it shows itself.

Ask yourself:

  • Is there a bathroom, kitchen or radiator above or near the patch?
  • Does the stain grow after someone has a shower or runs the washing machine?
  • Does your water meter move when everything is turned off?

To check the meter, turn off every tap and appliance, take a reading, wait an hour without using water and read it again. Any movement means water is escaping somewhere.

Finding a leak early might mean lifting one floorboard. Finding it late can mean replacing a ceiling, a floor and the timbers in between.

Ageing Appliance Hoses

When did you last pull the washing machine out and look at the hoses?

They sit under constant mains pressure. Rubber hardens and cracks with age, and many manufacturers recommend replacing hoses every five years or so. When one fails, it doesn’t drip. It sprays until someone turns the water off.

Check for bulges, splits and rusty fittings. Swap rubber hoses for braided stainless steel versions. It’s a cheap job that protects your kitchen floor, your units and potentially the room below.

Why Waiting Costs More

Most of the problems above share the same pattern. The early fix is quick and cheap. The late fix is slow, disruptive and expensive.

A typical plumbing call-out might cost a fraction of an insurance excess. And insurers may push back on claims where damage has clearly built up gradually over months rather than happening suddenly. A slow leak you knew about and ignored is a harder claim to make.

So here’s a simple routine:

  • Check under sinks with a torch every couple of months
  • Do the meter test twice a year
  • Inspect shower sealant every time you clean the bathroom
  • Watch your boiler pressure through the autumn and winter
  • Look at overflow pipes whenever you’re in the garden

Which of these problems have you been putting off? Pick one and sort it this week. Your future self, and your bank balance, will thank you.

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